Chevythunder-2010 Project Iron Horse LS6
This page is only as an guide and not a specific means of fabrication and installation, use the information at your own risk, as the author is not responsible for any damages from use of such information or lack of information here within.
Photo Op, with the brackets and accessories installed. In the final installation I won't be able to use the nice carbon fiber coil covers due to the placement of the fuel rail feed line, which ended up on the passenger side.
A/C Compressor Specialty Brackets
If you are going to use an aftermarket compressor mounted high on the passenger side, another option to consider is the Sanden compressor used with the bracket set up by Kwik Performance Products. www.kwikperf.com
Idler pulley for the project, found at the local salvage for $5. This pulley is used on the tensioner (located on the l/s accessory bracket) where the non grooved side of the belt rides. The bearing is a replaceable part on the metal idler pulleys. Generic bearing number is 6302.
Belt Tensioner
The belt tensioner is located on the water pump.
As far as I know there are two different styles that has to do with the height of the shoulder where the bearing rides. This can affect the tracking of the belt. Shorter height is used with the Corvette style brackets, while the taller one is used with the F body accessory brackets.
Short tensioner GM part # 12568181 Long tensioner GM part # 12569301
Cooling System
This picture shows the zinc anode installed in the radiator. Made by Flexalite part number 32060. This is a necessity if you are using a brass/copper radiator-heater core with a aluminum based engine and aluminum components such as the water pump. Only use non Dex-Cool antifreeze ( green or universal non Dex-Cool) with brass/copper radiators. The zinc anode is slowly sacrificed, keeping electrolysis from eating away at the aluminum engine parts.
The straight fittings on the water pump would not clear the frame for the installation of the heater hoses. They were removed, and the holes were tapped for 3/8-18 for the 5/8" hose, and 1/2-14 for the 3/4" hose. Tape off all the opening before doing the procedure on car, and make sure all the shavings are blown out before removing the tape. I used 45 degree angle fittings to clear the A/C bracket.
Transmission Dipstick Mounting
This hole is not tapped on the LSx blocks for the transmission bell housing, but if you are using your older transmission, it is recommended to tap this spot and install a bolt to attach the trans. fluid fill tube. You will need to install a short 1" spacer, though.
Be careful and only drill only about a 1/2" deep, go too far and you will fit the water jacket in the block, necessitating a sealing compound on the bolt.
Oil Pan Considerations
Take in consideration of what oil pan will fit for your project. I found out that the truck oil pan (top) will not clear the inner tie rod ends on the 2nd gen. Camaro/Firebird. . It is nearly 2 1/2" deep.
I had to get an F body pan which is only about half that height to clear the components. The truck oil pan rear sump also hangs below the cross member on most muscle cars about 3 inches, the F body pan is slightly above the cross member.
The pictures above illustrate the clearance afforded by using the proper oil pan. No interference with the steering components.
Fuel Line Installation
WARNING!!! Gasoline is flammable, so be sure to work in a well ventilated area with no open flames, sparks, pilot lights, etc. All fittings must be leak free. Do not drive the vehicle until all leaks have been eliminated.
Be sure when you mount the line, that it does not rub on any moving parts. The fuel line was mounted so it would have at least 4 inch clearance from the exhaust header.
Since I decided to go with a single fuel line installation, and my Camaro was equipped with dual line on the TPI, I just used the 3/8" line for my feed and capped off the unused 5/16" line. The beauty of the LS1 fuel rail is that it can be reversed so the fuel feed is on the passenger side. I used a flexible quick connect fuel line that is found on the GM FWD vehicles and used a compression fitting the connect the two hard lines together. As you see in the bottom picture, the fuel feed line had to be bent to clear the coil packs I am using.
The single line fuel filter also has a built in regulator. The fuel line connections are found on many late GM V6 and V8 engines. The female connectors ( 3/8" shown, 5/16" is needed) are found on the flexible nylon fuel hoses and are easily obtainable. The outlet side of the pump (left) is a hard line that uses the same quick connect fittings.
The common part number is Hastings GF336, which has been superceded by part number 33737. It has a fuel inlet line as well as a return to the tank and the output to your injector fuel rail.
Other part numbers for the same item that is more expensive is: Wix 33737, GM 10299146, Purolator F55493, GF1822, PGF336, GKI GF1822.
The fuel filter-regulator assembly installed near the fuel tank. You can clearly see the supply and return lines with the quick connect fittings from the late model GM nylon fuel lines. The rubber hoses are double clamped for safety. The outlet is on the other side of the filter. Barely seen in the upper right hand corner is a metal heat shield to protect the fuel line from the exhaust pipe heat.
In lieu of the fitting only approach to your fuel filter, you can also use the quick connect lines found on virtually all the later model GM FWD vehicles, they are plentiful and cheap.
Handy tip: When installing the flywheel bolts, remember they are accessible only on the passenger side with the starter removed. Use a break over bar with the socket to hold the crank steady as you tighten the flywheel bolts. Be sure to use a dab a thread lock compound and then torque the bolts to specs.
If you are using a pre 1996 automatic transmission such as a THM350, 400, 200R, 700R and non electric 4L60E, the torque converter bolt pattern is slightly smaller diameter and you will need to have your flexplate modified for the new bolt pattern. One way to do this is to take the older flexplate and aligned the used bolt holes and then use a awl and center punch to mark the new bolt location and drill the holes on the LS1 flexplate to match the torque converter. If you don't have the old flexplate you can do this carefully with the torque converter.
TIP: While the torque converter is accessible, replace the front seal. Cheap insurance to prevent a leak.
Cooling line modification when using a LS6 intake.
The cooling line for the steam bypass works on the raised floor LS1 intake, but will interfere with the installation of a LS6 intake. GM modified the later lines to basically block off the rear cooling bypass orifices and just a cross over on the front orifices. You can buy the set up from GM. part numbers 12602544 for the front line, and 12602540 for the rear block off (tow required). If you are like me and already have the bypass lines and don't want to spend $50+ for the GM set up you can do what I did here. After the installation of the manifold, you can't hardly tell the difference.
You will need a standard propane torch and nozzle and a plumbing soldering kit. Both items, typically less than $20. Begin by cutting off lines as shown above. Crimped the ends with a pair of vice grips or bench vise. Use the solder kit according to the instructions, you must use the flux cleaner or the solder will not adhere. You can check for leaks by capping off the ports and submerging in a pot of water.
Use new gaskets, GM part # 12551933 or equivalent.
This is the back of the block showing the installation of the rear block off for the cooling line.
The front of the motor showing the front cooling line installed.
The next project to tackle was the heater lines, as they are positioned, would interfere with the installation of the R4 air conditioning compressor.
The bibs were positioned approximately 30 degrees to clear the A/C compressor.
Side view of the heater hose bibs.
The 3/4" heater hose was positioned as shown.
This angle shows the position of the 5/8" heater hose.
This is what the cooling line bypass installation likes like. When the manifold and throttle body is in place, you won't be able to tell if its been modified.
200R-700R4 Throttle Valve Cable
If you are going to use your existing 200R/700R4 that uses the TV (throttle valve) cable, you must retain this feature or the tranny will be toast in a few miles. There are two different ways to approach this. One is to get a constant pressure valve body made by TCI or what I did is to use a specially designed cable/bracket made by Bowtie Overdrives www.bowtieoverdrives.com. This is around $160.00. One caveat is that use must use the LS1 throttle body that has the style of cable actuator as shown, as the cable bracket must fit on the rounded section. If your throttle body bracket does not look like the one in the picture, this will not work for you. Comes with all the instructions and the TV spring that must be replaced, and this will require the removal of the pan. While you are it, if your speedometer is reading incorrectly, you can used their speedometer calculator to get the right drive and driven gear to match your tire and rear gear ratio.
You must use the BowTie Overdrive throttle valve spring ( longer spring on the right) with the LS1 TV cable system.
Remember the water pump modification for the throttle body coolant lines? With the fitting facing straight forward, it interferes with the TV cable bracket adjustment. A slight angle on the fitting takes care of the clearance issue. Whew!
Shown above is the pressure gauge connected to a 1/8-18 NPT pressure tap located on the driver's side of the tranny. The original 90 threaded originally supplied from Bowtie Overdrives is easily damaged if the wrench slips while you are tightening it, so be careful!
The next picture shows that this hose must be routed away from any sources of heat and secured before you even start the engine.
The hose is long enough where you can put it when you are making the TV Cable adjustment. Very nice set up from Bowtie Overdrives.
Don't forget to install the oil pressure line before firing up your engine.
Even though it can be a matter of debate about what type of oil to use on your initial start up, DO NOT use synthetic oil until you have at least 3000 miles on the engine. When it comes down to the first oil that would be used on the first start up, today's motor oils do not have enough of the protective additives such as zincs and phosphates to use by themselves. The best break-in oil to use is a straight weight, such as Shell's SAE 30W Rotella T. Also a engine oil supplement such as EOS from GM or Redline added does not hurt. One nice thing about the Reline additive as a 16 oz. bottle has enough protection for the next oil change which is recommended at 500 miles.
Your assembly lube will clog the oil filter in a short period of time. After 20 minutes of initial break in time, change the oil filter and then change the oil and filter at 500 miles.
Make sure the temperature gauge sensor is installed and hooked up before filling up the cooling system.
Need a custom Gen III harness? Click here
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