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Chevythunder-2010 Project Iron Horse LS6
This page is only as an guide and not a specific means of fabrication and installation, use the information at your own risk, as the author is not responsible for any damages from use of such information or lack of information here within.
"How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines" by Chris Werner "How to Swap GM LS-Series Engines" by Jefferson Bryant
These two books are invaluable! I highly recommend purchasing these for your LSx project.
The block as it came back from the machine shop, ready to install the internal components. As clean as it may look, it is far from being squeaky clean. Any left over machining, honing processes will leave minute particles that need to be flushed and wiped out and this means cleaning the oil galleries as well. You did buy and read the rebuild manual suggested above?
Use a good high quality assembly lube that will not run off and therefore would allow you to store your engine for some time. The lube made by Redline is the best on the market.
My machine shop, which happens to be long established in Oklahoma City, did not have a reluctor installation tool made by Goodson. So I scraped up the $200 with shipping to purchase this. Although an unexpected expense, it gave me the experience to pass some hints and tips along to you.
NOTE: As good as this tool is I did discover one small detail that may or may not be a cause for concern and that is the small amount of play in the tool when it is installed with the ring on the crank prior to installation.
I found that the bolt that is used for the guide pin on the crank is considerably smaller than guide pin hole. When I measured this out a a amount of degrees of deflection it was roughly +/- .75 degrees,, or a total of around 1.5 degrees total movement. Whether or not this is enough to cause timing or crank learn issues is unknown, as I have not come across any articles on the web.
But, just to be sure I decided to fabricate a new guide bolt to minimize the amount of rotation when installing the new reluctor wheel.
The original guide bolt measures roughly .414"
The new guide pin I fabricated is around .434". This is about .005"
smaller than the guide pin hole, which results in very little perceptional play.
The guide bolt is the same as the old one as far as original uncut size of
1/2-18 thread, 2 inches long.
The instruction sheet supplied. Even though it says to align it according to the illustration, this can lead to confusion on what side goes where. See where the holes on the reluctor are in relation to the orientation of the alignment holes on the installation tool. It must be installed in this way to properly line up the teeth on the reluctor wheel or you will wind up with a motor that runs poorly or not at all!
Rubber mallet used in the installation, never use anything else. Also, you will need a 400 degree F temperature indication crayon. This is used to make sure you have reached the predetermined temperature to install the reluctor ring. Overheating the ring beyond 450 degrees F will destroy it's temper.
This picture shows that you must chamfer the inside of the ring that faces forward on the crankshaft. 58X reluctor is shown.
Setting up the proper depth on the alignment pins here was down by trail and error and is shown here to save you time. First, the large bolt that fits in the dowel location on the crankshaft rear flange. The Allen head bolt is flush with the nut. The small bolt which fits into the hole on the reluctor is set for the length shown (approx 1 inch) and the nut tighten securely.
This is what the reluctor position would look like in the beginning of the installation process.
Hint: With the crank flange dowel at the 12 o'clock position , the "arrows" in the reluctor wheel will point to the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, with the balance holes at the bottom and the alignment pin for the reluctor at 120 degrees from the 12 o'clock position.
To get it hot enough, you will need a acetylene torch and by moving the flame around in a continuous motion, heat it up evenly and monitor the temperature with the heat crayon until it melts on the surface of the reluctor wheel. Once the proper temperature is achieved, and this will only take about a couple of minutes or so, take the rubber mallet and strike the top of the installation tool and the reluctor will drop in place of the flange of the crank. It will cool quickly and shrink the reluctor wheel in place.
Another view of the reluctor wheel and installation tool.
The reluctor is installed. Note the black smudge on the surface next to the arrowed cut out. This is from the temperature stick.
A performance rebuild deserves a set of high quality main cap bolts, as those made by ARP, a product made here in the U.S.A.. There are two different lengths due to the oil baffle tray. The proper installation shown in the first picture, with the longer bolt going on the outside.
LS1 engine head bolts, shown here for illustration. The earlier engines before 2003 used the style shown above, long and short M11 bolts. The shorter (M8) bolts go on the intake manifold side. The 2003 and later engines M11 bolts are the same length. Unless you use aftermarket bolts, the headbolts are TTY ( torque to yield) and can only be used one time only. Another thing to know is that the stock bolts are good for up to 500 rwhp.
I suggest using the MLS gaskets for the heads. Proper installation means that the engine size tab on the gasket will be facing up.
This picture shows the numerical markings on the head bolts to insure they will be torqued in the proper sequence. This is a good practice as it will insure that they will be tighten in the right order. Do all your head bolt torque settings in one session, with no interruptions. Always follow the rebuild manual for the proper torque specifications.
Installation of the camshaft, using a long rod on the center drilled end will insure installation without nicking the bearing journals. A very highly recommended procedure.
The back of the block, the camshaft will be flush.
NOTE: When installing the timing chain gear set ( especially those with a multi keyed crank gear) pay special attention to installing the gear in the proper orientation. It is very easy to believe that when the #1 piston is at the top of the deck, it is at true top dead center. Watch out! Since the multi-key gear has several slots, it is very easy to install the tooth index at "0", while in reality the crank shaft key is not at true top dead center. The slots are marked to where it should be installed. For example, if you want the crank to be at true dead center, installed the gear keyed slot on the crank at "0", then checked the marking at the tooth and if it is not at the 12 o'clock position, move the crank until the tooth marked "0" is at the 12 noon position.
Before installing the chain, the cam gear must also be index to the correct position as well. The dowel pin on the cam should be in the 3 o'clock position, so that when the cam gear is installed the index mark (dot) is at the 6 o'clock spot. The picture below shows the proper position when the engine is at true top dead center.
The proper procedure for torquing rod bolts requires a bolt stretch gauge.
Base on the bolt manufacturer's recommendations for the amount of stretch needed, set the proper stretch. Use the steps in the rebuild book for the step by step procedures.
Consider a performance oil pump from Melling as part of your rebuild.
Using a double row timing chain presented challenges with the fitment of the front timing cover. The timing chain set came with spacers which was necessary to use to have the oil pump clear the gear set.
Unfortunately, the front cover would not set flush, even with the gasket installed.
Shown in yellow is the high spots that must be addressed. I spent several hours on this to find where the interference was coming from.
Using a die grinder, I was able to take off just enough material where the interference was. The end result is a timing chain cover that fits.
NOTE: Another item I came across was a slight interference with the timing chain and the back of the pump housing near the pick up tube. Even with the spacers installed, there is just enough play that the timing chain will cut a notch in the pump housing. Before you discover this yourself take not of what is done here.
Much to my dismay, this is what I found. If you have an unexplained noise that
sounds like a tensioner or idler pulley bearing and you have installed a high
performance pump with the interference problems, take heed. Do the procedure
shown below before you install the new pump with a double row timing chain.
Be sure to completely cover the pump outlets and gear.
With a die grinder, cut down just enough to get roughly
.050 clearance. DON'T over do it! Be sure to thoroughly
clean the pump if you suspect metal particles have found there way inside.
As you can see, there is now a comfortable clearance that will make that mysterious
noise problem go away.
The temperature used on the project. This was installed on the passenger side head. You will need to tap the hole for a 1/4-18 thread for this style of sensor. There also a 12mm to 1/4 adapter that can be purchased through Autometer.
Kent-Moore Flywheel locking tool J42386-A
This tool, though pricey at $90, is a great investment for holding the flywheel in place while doing tasks such as tighten (or loosening) the harmonic balance bolt (with engine installed) and removing or installing the flywheel itself. Consider this a must have tool.
Shown here is the flywheel holding bracket made to lock it in place, which is handy when torquing the harmonic balance and flywheel bolts.
Kent-Moore Crankshaft seal installer tool J41479
This is another one of those "must have" tools, that will come in handing in the event you ever have to replace the rear crankshaft seal on your Gen III. Although there are other techniques to do this, absolute cleanliness and care must be taken when installing the rear seal. A leak here will certainly ruin your day. This is not a cheap tool, but no high quality tool that does the job right is. You can get lucky and find one for about $200 on the internet, but a new one will set you back close to $280.
Need a custom Gen III harness ? Click here
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