Chevythunder-2010 Project Iron Horse LS6
This page is only as an guide and not a specific means of fabrication and installation, use the information at your own risk, as the author is not responsible for any damages from use of such information or lack of information here within.
Power Steering Pump
Since my project uses the Corvette style brackets, fabricating the hoses to fit and clear everything was a challenge that took up the most part of a Sunday afternoon, but the end result was well worth it. The pressure hose that feeds the power steering gearbox was modified using several parts that were adapted together using 3/8" compression fittings. The trick to getting a leak free installation is to use a tubing cutter to make straight, clean cuts on the tubing.
The F-body and truck brackets will require a different lengths of hoses and lines to work.
This is another angle showing how the hose clears the control arm.
This is the pressure hose as assembled before installation. The original power steering box steel line and fitting was used (on the left), the pressure hose used was originally used on the LS1 Corvette (found on Ebay), and the fitting to the pump was scavenged from a GM FWD V6.
Clearance after fabrication was no problem.
Front angle view, the line in the lower corner of the picture is the return line from a power steering cooler line that was pulled from a Chevrolet Caprice police cruiser. As you can see the hose clears the pitman arm.
Cooling Fans
The cooling fan set up I used was purchased on Ebay that came from a LS1 F-body. What was really nice about this that it fit very nicely into the radiator supports on the top and bottom. The bottom edge of the fan assembly was still a little loose, so using one of the fan brackets I had used for my Camaro with a single fan, I was able to secure the bottom of the fan shroud.
A lot of the late model GM V6 cars use a dual fan set up that can be adapted your particular ride. Also don't overlook the Dodge or Ford section either.
This is the bottom shot showing the lower fan shroud holding bracket. Remember the power steering cooling lines mention above? they are shown mounted to the bottom of the radiator support, and you can see them going to the upper left hand side of the picture to the power steering pump.
To seal off around the edges of the fan shroud housing, you can use the rubber found to seal the hood and the cowl on many GM FWD vehicles. It is cheap, can be cut to fit and will effectively increase the air flow through the radiator for better cooling.
Air Intake
The air intake system I fabricated used a intake hose from LS2 GTO, and a flexible hose from a company called Spectre, which can found here. In between is the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, using the factory rubber adapter ring.
Coming through the original 4" opening used for the tpi air cleaner, I used the Firebird TPI hose to route against inner fender well, then another piece of the flexible duct from Spectre and then to the air filter assembly. Although it is difficult to see in the picture, I used large hose clamps ( 2 pieced together) to secure the air filter assembly to the fender brace, Also to secure the hose duct against the fender well, two hose clamps was fed through the fender and secures the duct snugly. For the size of tires I am using, the duct clears the tires. If you are going to this type of set up, be aware of the clearance to avoid damage.
Shown is a sheet metal shield that will be used to protect the air filter from road debris flung from the tire. Not very pretty, but functional.
There are many ways to fabricate a air duct system, and it requires careful planning that depends on the total package.
Throttle Cable
The original hole for the throttle cable that was used on the original TPI system was too large of an opening to be used with the new cable for the LS1. Instead of cutting another hole in the firewall for the cable, I took a starter shim that was 1/16" thick and carefully drilled holes in a square pattern slightly larger than the locking tabs on the cable mount. Then used a small file to smooth the rough edges to allow the tabs to fit properly, I drilled and tap mounting holes to attach the fabricated shim to the firewall. The cable was then attached at both ends, the throttle and the pedal. To insure full opening of the throttle blade, have an assistant push the accelerator pedal to the floor, and observed to see the throttle blades fully open. If they don't, you may be able to get some additional adjustment by bending the arm on the accelerator to give it more travel. Just be sure not to adjust it past the point where the throttle blade will not fully close.
The throttle cable is from a mid 90's mid and full size GM FWD cars.
The vacuum reservoir that was originally mounted on the A/C evaporator core is mounted on the firewall.
This picture shows the fuse block assembly I specially fabricated for my project. This is mounted on the left front inner fender well.
This picture taken on Sept. 20, 2011 shows the finished engine compartment.
PCM Mounting
There are several ways to mount the pcm in the vehicle, some are easier than others, but this will depend on your vehicle. Some will want to mount the pcm in the passenger compartment, and if there is enough room behind the dash, this is a viable solution as it reduces the clutter in the engine compartment. If the vehicle is a truck you are almost unlimited in mounting locations. Again, it all comes down to space, looks and location. The LSx pcm measures 81/2" wide ( with connectors) x 9" long x 3" high, without the mounting bracket. In some vehicles such as a second generation Camaro, it is a tough choice to decide where to mount the pcm.
The mounting bracket used was from the Corvette. I cut the "top" portion off so I can move the pcm mounting lower into the fender well depression.
Another style of pcm bracket is found on the mid and full size trucks.
WARNING: I had originally mounted my pcm as shown in the picture below.
DON'T DO IT.
Apparently there is enough of a electromagnetic current from the alternator that is being generated that it will kill the ecm. I found this out the hard way after I programmed a second computer and it did the same thing. It would run for about a minute and a half and then die. Using a noid light would show no injector pulse, and everything else was good to go, fuel pressure, crank and cam sensor pulse etc. After I reflashed a third pcm, and laid the pcm about 12" away from the alternator and it would run as it should.
After giving this considerable thought I decided that I would mount the pcm behind the left side inner fender well on the firewall itself. The pcm bracket I used is found on the 1999 and later GM trucks. There is plenty of room to do this and I was able to re-route the harness with no modifications.
This is a well protected spot to mount the pcm. The pcm fits well and results in a neater engine compartment.
This is the view looking from the front of engine compartment, you really have to look hard to see the pcm.
I cut an access hole to be able to gain quick access to the pcm. A 11 inch by 8 inch opening works just fine.
The access cover is made of the same thickness as the inner fender well.
Need a custom Gen III harness? Click here
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